I felt so organised this time 12 months ago, and I was looking forward to knuckling down with my training, ready to work hard to achieve my racing goals for the year.
Things started off well with the Hypothermic Half in February (a personal worst due to boredom running on the roads), and a fairly good result at the Weaselhead Cross Country race in Calgary a week later.
But then things went tits up and all my planned races started to get cancelled. It would be another 8 months before I got to do another in person race (Big's Backyard Ultra - World Championship), and even that was very different from what I'd been used to.
Thankfully, race organisers did a great job throughout the year to keep us runners motivated, and wanting to support them as much as possible in these strange times, I entered so many virtual events and challenges that I ended up running my highest annual mileage ever during 2020.
By December, I had already ran close to 6000km for the year, but when my coach sent through my plan at the beginning of the month, he had penciled in an "end of year running challenge - tbd". We briefly discussed what this might be but made no real decisions - it was still a couple of weeks away, so no big rush was required - and besides, it wasn't going to be so extravagant that it would result in tons of planning.
One evening as I was scrolling through my Facebook feed, a post about "The Snow Queen Ultra" from a fellow Team Canada team mate at the Backyard Ultra caught my attention. For some reason I was drawn to the event - a 113.6-mile (183km) virtual journey across Norway, which is the setting for the Hans Christian Anderson children's story of "The Snow Queen" - a story that has influenced many movies, including the Disney movie "Frozen". I started to come up with a plan, and having discussed it first with Andy and then coach Paul, my end of year challenge was decided - I would be completing The Snow Queen Ultra.
There were no set rules for the event and it could be done at any point during the winter months, and you could take as long as you liked to complete it. However, I needed some structure and I needed a meaty challenge, so we came up with our own rules for completion:
1. I had to complete the race in just 3 days, starting at sunrise on the Winter Solstice - December 21st.
2. Each day, I would run no less than 61km (38 miles) and I had to complete the run by sunset. If I did not beat the sun, the time would be taken from the following day's time which gave me less time to complete the 61k the next day.
3. If I did beat the sun, that excess time would allow me more time to complete the distance the next day.
4. The race would be completed in Jasper where I would encounter much hillier terrain, and the conditions would be much tougher than running back home in Leduc.
5. The route would take me along the Maligne Lake Road from Jasper townsite to the boat house at Maligne Lake, and I would do the same route each day and alternate the direction. This meant that Andy and the pups could follow along in the car to crew me and to make sure I was safe.
They were simple but tough rules, and despite having done many ultras over the years, this one would be very different given that it would be a solo multi-day event during the winter months in Canada. I didn't want it to be easy as it wouldn't be a challenge, and whilst I could have ran mountain trails to make things even tougher, I was adamant that I would not put myself at unnecessary risk where a mountain rescue might be required if things didn't go as planned. There were of course still risks in doing what I did - hypothermia, slipping and injuring myself on ice, wildlife, running through avalanche areas, and even vehicles on the road - but I mitigated things as much as possible, whilst trying to make sure it would still be an unforgettable experience.
Day 1 - Maligne Lake to Jasper, Sunrise 9.06am, Sunset 4.36pm
Sunrise would be at 9.06am and after a good night's sleep, we awoke at around 7am and I had my usual bowl of porridge and a strong cup of tea. It was still dark outside and we had an hour's drive out to Maligne Lake, so after loading up the car with my race day supplies and gear, we headed to Tim's for a coffee and a doughnut to keep us going for the next couple of hours.
Leaving town, the temperature was around -15 degrees Celsius and we knew that it would be even colder out at Maligne Lake given the higher altitude and mountain location. As we left the lights of town behind us and headed out into the backcountry, the roads became more snow covered with icy patches in places. It was good to drive out to the lake first as I would be running back this same way later in the day, and it gave me some idea as to what the conditions would be like underfoot. It also reminded me as to how hilly this road really was and I was sure to feel those ups and downs in my legs over the next couple of days.
In all honesty, we were really hoping to catch a beautiful sunrise over the lake, but as daylight slowly appeared, clouds filled the sky and it was unlikely that the sun would be breaking through anytime soon.
We arrived approximately 20 minutes before sunrise and parked at the boat launch where we had started the Skyline Trail run earlier in the year. The views across Maligne Lake from this point never grow old, and that eerie morning light cast shadows across the icy lake as we got ourselves ready for a full day of running.
Start line at Maligne Lake on Day 1, and waiting for the sunrise
I'd been sure to layer up given the cold conditions and was wearing 3 layers of thermal clothing on top along with a down vest, whilst on my legs I had thermal running tights and shorts underneath to keep my quads from freezing. A hat, double gloves, thermal buff, 2 pairs of socks and my Salomon Spike Cross completed the outfit. I was also carrying my backpack which had an extra windproof/waterproof jacket stuffed into the back pocket in case the forecasted snow arrived, a full bladder of Tailwind, a couple of energy gels and some jelly beans, my phone and of course my bear spray. It was very unlikely that I would see a bear at this time of year although it isn't unknown for them to make brief appearances during the winter months, but there are still cougar and moose out in the wilds, along with wolves, bobcats and other carnivores that I wasn't too keen on experiencing at a close range. I felt prepared, and knowing that Andy would be out there checking on me every 5km or so, I knew things would be ok.
Start line at Maligne Lake on Day 1, and waiting for the sunrise
Bang on 9.06am - the official sunrise for the shortest day of the year - I started my watch and commenced my virtual journey across Norway as I took my first steps of The Snow Queen Ultra.
The first couple of miles were uphill, and I got into a nice, steady rhythm and tried to maintain a pace no quicker than around 10 minute miling. The legs were feeling good, I was nice and warm without being overly dressed, and everything seemed to be moving well. Andy had left me and I was alone, running along the snow covered road, surrounded by the beauty of the Rocky Mountains. It still wasn't properly light but I didn't need a headtorch or anything, and everything was so peaceful and still, the snow silencing things even more than usual. There was nobody around - no cars, no people, no sound of birds, no wildlife - and as I paused for a few moments just listening to the silence, it was quite surreal and dreamlike. The sudden sound of a squirrel chattering away in the nearby trees brought me out of my reverie, and it sat on the snowbank alongside the road getting rather angry at a fir cone, before picking it up in his mouth and sprinting across the road in front of me.
After a few miles, I crossed the bridge over the Maligne River and stood mesmerised by the sheer beauty of the mountains towering over the valley, the snow on the pine trees, and the ice on the river as the water raged beneath. The road followed the river for a short while and then veered away as the long drawn-out downhill towards Medicine Lake stretched out before me, I was treated to the most amazing views of the Maligne Mountain range that formed the valley.
Mountain views on the road back to Jasper, approximately 5km
I had been sure to refuel early on, but by 10k, all my food was frozen despite having wrapped in in woolen socks, and trying to take an energy gel was like eating a frozen ice lolly. The jellybeans were like eating pea gravel, whilst the tube to my bladder had frozen solid despite the water inside still being fluid. Although not yet like a summer's day, things had warmed up a little and I was starting to sweat and needed to drink. Thankfully Andy had stopped at a pull out a few miles down the road, and I was able to get a warm drink from him along with some crisps and a small sandwich. I decided to leave my bladder with him rather than carrying the extra weight which would bring no benefits, and we agreed that he would stop every 5km or each half hour to make sure I was drinking enough to stay hydrated.
Not having the weight of the bladder made a huge difference, and within 90 minutes of starting I reached the 15km mark and the end of Medicine Lake. Now all I had to do was follow the shoreline for the next 5 or 6 miles, before starting the long downhill which would take me to the canyon.
A day in the life of a lonesome runner :)
Conditions underfoot were still quite snowy, and my Spike Cross shoes had been doing a fantastic job keeping my feet warm and dry, as well as giving me a good grip in the snow. I was still averaging around 10 minute miles which was my goal - I still had 2 more days and didn't want to be too enthusiastic on day 1 meaning I would have nothing left for the remaining days - and I was feeling good with no issues at all.
It was almost an hour later when I saw Andy again. He was waiting in the parking lot at the Jaques Lake trailhead, and had a ham and cheese sandwich waiting for me, along with a cup of hot chocolate and a sausage roll. I hadn't realised just how hungry I was, and I devoured everything he gave me and washing it down with the hot chocolate. It made such a huge difference and gave me the energy boost I needed. I had also been sweating quite a bit, and lingering around eating a drinking brought about a distinct chill so I knew I needed to get moving again to prevent things like hypothermia setting in.
The pups were of course in the car with Andy, and Wilson had been rather restless for the past hour or so as he watched me run past every few miles. As I was getting ready to head off for the next stage of my run, he gave me a hopeful look and a pitiful tail wag which melted my heart. It was so clear that he wanted to run with me, so despite not having the proper equipment for running with the pups, I agreed to take him with me for a couple of miles. He got so excited, and I was absolutely beaming as we ran alongside Medicine Lake, taking in the magnificent views surrounding us and enjoying being in the company of my little lad.
Fun times on route with my favourite boy!
It was here that we encountered the first vehicles of the day. Maligne Lake Road is open during the winter months but the traffic is light, and we probably encountered 3 or 4 cars as we headed along this undulating stretch alongside the lake. Thankfully there was plenty of room for us all and in general, the motorists were observant and saw us coming. Wilson did awesome and had so much fun, covering around 5km with me before he had to go back in the car. He was full of energy and was flying along, but his pace was a little too quick for me, and I did pay for it later in the day.
As Wilson hopped back into the car, April decided that she wanted to run with me too and we ran just over a mile together before she too decided it was time to get back inside of the car where it was much warmer.
Snuggles and runs with one of my favourite girls :)
I was sad not to run any further with the pups but also a little relieved as it really did feel like hard work. Not having the correct harness and leash made a huge difference, and having already ran some 15 miles on snowy, mountainous roads my legs really couldn't keep up with them, but I was so happy to have shared some miles with them. Tillie of course was with us, but she really doesn't like cold, wintry weather, so she just looked lovingly from the window every so often before settling back down on her blanket and going back to sleep.
Having left the pups with Andy, I continued my solo journey back to Jasper and started the climb that would take me to the Medicine Lake outlook. I'd started to get back into the zone when I spotted animal tracks in the snow that had my heart pounding. I'm not a tracker by any means, but these were HUGE prints, they were definitely not deer or even moose, and with a rounded pad, they looked like rather large cat prints. The first thing I thought of was cougar, and as I looked up at my surroundings, it sure looked like perfect hunting territory for cougar with dense trees and open rocky areas where they could so easy stalk their prey and pounce on an unsuspecting animal - including a human!
I still had my bear spray with me, but it did little to settle the unease I was now feeling. My breathing rate increased, my pace picked up, and I could hear my heart beating in my ears. The tracks weren't exactly fresh, but the fact they were there meant that something big had been in the area, and I really didn't want to find out what it was. I hadn't seen Andy for a bit, and the tracks continued along the road for at least a mile before disappearing into the trees. I'm not sure if that made me feel better or worse - at least I could see things on the road, but if hidden in the trees, whatever it was would be camouflaged and I certainly wouldn't see nor hear it until the last minute.
It was the most alert I had been so far that day, and as the road began the descent towards Maligne Canyon, I was relieved that I could now at least run a little quicker - not necessarily good if there is a huge cat following! Thankfully Andy was waiting a short distance ahead, and I mentioned to the tracks to him and how anxious I was feeling. He was really good and said he would drive just ahead of me to make sure all was ok, and it did make me feel much better knowing that I wasn't entirely on my own out there.
The road continued downwards with a couple of steep uphills thrown in every now and then, but I was still feeling relatively good now that my fear of a cougar encounter had been reduced. I did see more tracks further down the road that looked like the same animal, and then I saw some tracks that looked like dogs' claws and figured that maybe these were wolf tracks. Crazy as it sounds, I felt like I could handle seeing a pack of wolves! Andy stopped at a couple of pullouts on the way and I was sure to keep eating and drinking to maintain my energy levels. I knew that the snow and ice would become less the further down the road I got, so we had agreed to change into my other trail shoes as soon as I arrived at the canyon. Reaching the canyon seemed to take forever as the downhill stretch went on and on, but eventually I saw the sign, and I made the turn into the parking lot where Andy was once again waiting, and I was able to refuel further as well as changing my shoes.
The direct route between Jasper and Maligne Lake was only 47km, so I needed to add an extra 14km on to the route each day to make sure I hit the 61km daily target. Today, I had decided to follow some of the trails around Maligne Canyon and to get some photos of the frozen waterfalls whilst there. I figured I could get a good 6km looping around the forest trails, but within half a mile, I slipped badly on some ice and felt my knee tightening up - I knew I shouldn't have changed my shoes just yet! I aborted the trails and headed back towards Andy, telling him I would have to do the extra around town once back in Jasper but at least it meant he could take the dogs to the dog park whilst I was finishing my final few miles.
I felt weird being close to civilization again, and after 4 or 5 hours of just me on the road, I was suddenly surrounded by people and cars and noise. It wasn't really that busy, but having got used to just my own company in such a short space of time, it took some adjusting.
The road was no longer covered in snow, so I was able to speed up a little and as I approached the turning for Jasper Park Lodge, a car stopped just ahead of me. From its behaviour, I guessed that there was a wild animal in the area so I stopped running and walked cautiously forwards. It was then that a beautiful fox ran out into the road, crossing to the other side before going about its business. It was so awesome to see wildlife in its natural habitat, and it was a first for me in seeing a fox whilst out in the national parks.
Fox sighting heading back into Jasper
I was now into the last 10k or so for the day, and I had 90 minutes before the sun would set - it looked like day one would bring me the win in the race against the sun. I wasn't too keen on doing loops around town for the finish, so I decided to run up to the Lodge in the hope that I could find a way through alongside the river before heading back into town. I ran just half a mile before I arrived at the hotel - not as far as I thought - and with a COVID test centre at the gates, I really didn't want to have to faff around with all of that if I was just passing through.
Andy was waiting for me at the gates with more food and drink, and I asked him to look at the map to see if there was a way through on the trails so I could avoid running down the highway back into town. It looked like there were trails that I could follow, but it was starting to go dark, my phone battery was at 10%, and given that Andy would not be able to follow in the car if I decided to follow the trails, I did decide against it as I wasn't familiar with the area and I didn't want to get lost. I turned around and headed back the way I'd come, crossing the bridge over the Athabasca River that would take me to the highway, and then I followed what looked to be a trail back into town.
The trail alongside the highway looked to be a sheep or deer trail, and after a mile or so it disappeared and I found myself traipsing through long grass and over patches of ice, trying to head in the right direction towards Jasper. It was also extremely noisy with the traffic, and I could already feel myself tensing up with the volume - I really had been spoilt during the day with not seeing anybody!
It took around 20 to 30 minutes to run from the bridge to town, but I finally arrived at the townsite and had just 4 miles to go to complete my miles for the day. It was around 3.30pm and the sun would be setting in just over an hour - I was pretty sure that I would make it to the information centre before the sun set, and after a quick picture at the sign, I rejoined the marked trail that would take me through town.
35 miles complete - around 5km still to go!
Running up the hill back into town, I knew I would still have approximately 4 or 5k to do. My legs were starting to feel somewhat tired having already ran 35 miles, and that last 3 miles for the finish were a slog. I had dropped my backpack with Andy a while back, and having drank all my drink once leaving Jasper Lodge, I was feeling pretty dehydrated. Jasper has a ruling for mandatory masks even when passing through the townsite, so I covered my face with my Buff and found myself getting a little puffy as the fatigue was setting in.
It felt like forever that I was looping loops and finding new trails to ensure I covered the full 38 miles for the day, but finally at a little after 4.15pm, I ran to my finish line outside the Parks Information Centre in the centre of town, finishing just 21 minutes before the official sunset for the day.
Day 1 was complete and I had that extra 20 minutes or so to carry over to the following day. Tomorrow would be tougher as I would be running the same route in reverse. Not only would I need to have recovered from today, but it would also be much hillier the opposite way around. There was also a chance of snow overnight, so conditions could actually be quite tough but I felt ready to tackle whatever got thrown at me.
That night, we had steak for tea with jacket potato and sweetcorn. It was delicious and I couldn't quite believe how hungry I actually was. We also had some birthday cake left over and I happily munched through 2 large slices washed down with a good cup of tea. I then had a hot shower before Andy gave my legs and back a massage to help to prepare me for the next day. I went to bed feeling tired but happy, and excited about the next day would bring.
Day 1 progress in the Snow Queen Ultra :)
Day 2 - Jasper to Maligne Lake - Sunrise 9.04am, Sunset 4.38pm
Starting in town rather than the lake meant that we got an extra hour's sleep as we didn't need to drive to the start. Sunrise came a little earlier today at 9.04am and was due to set at 4.38 - with the extra 21 minutes from the previous day, I had 7 hours 55 minutes to complete today's run. That seemed like an incredibly long time to run "just" 38 miles, but with much more elevation and some fresh snow up in the mountains, I didn't want to assume too much. I will also admit to feeling somewhat nervous today - nervous about the climbs, and definitely nervous about wildlife - those prints yesterday had really spooked me, and I was convinced that some critter would be waiting for me to pass by again today.
We headed to the information centre again which today would be my start line, and I stood waiting patiently for the sunrise which would signify the starting gun. I was clearly dressed for running, and as I waited, a passerby commented that it looked like I was waiting for a group of running friends. We then got chatting and it turned out that this chap was also a runner, although apparently he doesn't race quite so much these days. I explained what I was doing in terms of the Snow Queen Ultra, and he appeared to be quite impressed with what I had planned for the 3 day challenge. I was explaining to him that I felt nervous today having seen the animal tracks in the snow the previous day, and he reassured me that there are no cougars in the Maligne Valley, although there are 5 wolf packs that frequent the area. It sounds a little crazy, but I felt relieved at having to deal with a pack of wolves rather than a lonesome cougar, and as we parted ways and I set off on my second 61km run of the week, I felt so much happier and was looking forward to another great day in the mountains.
With starting in Jasper this morning, I wanted to do the 8 miles (13km) before heading out of town, so I hit the riverside trails to gain the extra mileage. It was so nice to run on trails - it was so peaceful with my only company being the birds and a few squirrels. I decided to head over to Old Fort Point where I was intending to do a loop of the trail up the hillside, before getting back on the riverside trails, and heading out to Whistlers Campground before turning around and making my way back to town, before heading back in the opposite direction back towards the Maligne Lake area.
Heading out to Old Fort Point :)
It was a beautiful, crisp morning and mountains looked fantastic as the sun was rising. Heading out to Old Fort Point, I took a few pictures as I ran along, and then as I crossed the bridge that would bring me to the trail head, there were around 15 big horned sheep blocking the road. I stood filming them for a good 5 or 10 minutes, admiring their nimble footing and ability to climb on sheer cliff faces, and wondering how on earth the males keep their balance with such huge horns wrapped around their heads. The sheep didn't move, I didn't want to disturb them, so I opted to turn around and find an alternative route.
Athabasca River views ..
It really wasn't too difficult to find a different trail, and I followed shores of the Athabasca River as I meandered along forest trails. I was so busy admiring the views that the next minute, I tripped over a tree stump and ended up sprawled out on the floor. The fall shocked me a little and I lay there for a few minutes waiting for the stars to disappear and the ache in my arm and leg to calm down - I later bruised from the fall, and my right hip was definitely a little sore for the next couple of days.
Old Fort Point and Big Horned Sheep
It took almost an hour for me to cover the 4 miles or so before I needed to turn around - much longer than I had hoped for and I knew I was already behind schedule, but I figured that I could make up that time as the day progressed and wasn't too concerned. I sent Andy a message to let him know that I was now heading back towards Maligne Lake Road, and I expected to be at the bridge at the start of the climb within the hour.
I arrived at the bridge on schedule, and after Andy had handed me some food and drink of hot coffee, I headed off up the road towards the canyon, and the real start of todays 61km.
The climb to the Maligne Canyon parking lot is approximately 6km and is quite steep in places. I took my time as I made steady progress up the hill, and despite being quite a few cars despite still being relatively early, I was enjoying the running. It was only -5 at the minute so much warmer than yesterday, and I knew that despite gaining in altitude, things would still warm up as the sun broke through the clouds.
My fear of running solo through the densely forested area subsided somewhat, but Andy was still making sure he stayed just a few hundred yards ahead in the car. This made me feel much better as I knew that I would start to slow the further I got up the hill, and just knowing he was close-by was reassuring.
As I left the Maligne Canyon behind me, I prepared myself for the next few miles of constant climbing until reaching Medicine Lake view point. I knew this stretch was a relentless climb but I convinced myself that it was only 4 or 5 miles from the canyon - how wrong I was!
Whilst no snow had fallen in town overnight, there was definitely some of the white stuff on the road, and having now changed in to my Spikecross again for the remainder of the day, it was actually quite hard work slogging up hill in the softer, deeper snow. The climb went on and on and there was no end in sight. Every time I turned a corner, I would hope to see the deadfall that meant I was close to the overlook by the lake, but nope, the road just stretched ever upwards into the distance.
Roadside views heading towards Medicine Lake
I had been running uphill for around 2 hours now, and the only good thing I was thinking was that there were no animal tracks in the snow today - phew! But mentally I was struggling, and physically my legs were complaining and were desperate for some reprieve from the constant climb. i tried to distract myself by looking around, but I was surrounded by trees with just a climb ahead of me, but some wonderful mountain views behind.
Andy was stopping every so often to provide me with food and water. My bladder hadn't frozen today so I was drinking really well, but the weight of the backpack was really starting to bug me and was causing me to lean too far forward resulting in back ache. I felt like such a winger, but I ended up leaving my backpack in the car which made a huge difference.
After what seemed like hours and hours, I finally rounded a corner and recognised the landscape - after 12 miles or so since meeting Andy at the bridge, the road was starting to level out and I knew that I was approaching Medicine Lake. It was such a relief and it gave me a huge mental boost - I had now done over 22 miles and only had 16 to go until reaching Maligne Lake - the worst of the climbing was over, and from here onwards, it would be undulating but nothing stupid.
Feeling happy - it really IS just around the corner now!
At last! - 22 miles done - now onto today's finish at Maligne Lake :)
I had a good drink and a good fill of food one at the top of the hill, and now feeling far more energised and much more positive again, I started on the route that would take me to the other end of the lake. If yesterday's views had me being wowed, the weather today made them even more incredible, and I stared agog once again at the sheer beauty that surrounded me. I had one of those dreamlike surreal moments, where I couldn't quite believe it was me that was actually here running, and I really couldn't stop smiling - a far cry from how I had been feeling just a couple of hours earlier!
There were more cars passing by today which got a little frustrating at times, with some driving far too close and forcing me to run in the really deep snow at the side of the road. Thankfully though, my feet did stay warm and dry, and the frostbitten toe from a couple of years ago wasn't complaining too much.
The run alongside Medicine Lake is approximately 6 or 7 miles, and I seemed to cover the distance pretty quickly. I won't lie - my legs were feeling pretty tired today from all the climbing, but with less than 10 miles to go, I was convinced that I would beat the sunset given that there was now minimal climbing to be done as I entered the final stages of the day's run.
Medicine Lake complete - now into the home stretch for the day :)
By now it was mid-afternoon and the sun was starting to go down behind the mountains which cast a shadow over the valley. I could feel the temperature starting to drop and I noticed that my hair was starting to frost over but I was still feeling quite warm. The increased number of cars meant that Andy wasn't able to stop and fuel me as much as he had been doing, and those last few miles resulted in me running very much solo. It was quite a nice feeling in all honesty, and I felt quite relaxed and content as I shuffled along.
But there was alot of negativity starting to set in again. Unlike the previous day, I was well behind schedule, and was averaging just 4 to 5 miles per hour as opposed to the 6 to 7 miles per hour the previous day. It wasn't that I was intentionally running more slowly - it was more because I had underestimated just how hilly it was doing the route in reverse, and the climbing was starting to take it's toll. The road ahead just went up and up and up, every bend I turned just seemed to track the mountain side, and with the air now starting to cool quite considerably as dusk was starting to fall, it was becoming even more of a slog through the deeper snow.
Andy was driving backwards and forwards on the road by now as there were no safe places for him to pullover, and every time I saw him, I was complaining about the hills and swearing like a trooper. I kept looking at my watch - sunset was getting closer, I was getting slower, and there was still no sign of things flattening out to give my legs a break. Add to that the ache in my back, I really was not happy. I was also getting extremely frustrated at myself and somewhat disappointed - it looked liked the sun would set before I finished today. The rules I'd set myself said that surplus time could be carried over to the next day, but if that surplus is used up, you have less time the following day to finish. I still had 5 miles to go and sunset was in one hour ...
I pushed on feeling even more despondent, my only focus now to just finish as soon as possible to give me every opportunity of completing the Snow Queen Ultra within the time limit I'd set for myself. A car drove by and the occupants offered me a bottle of water and asked if I was ok. I refused the water, said that I was absolutely fine, and just continued my zombie like plod up the road. I started to cry a little out of frustration and disappointed, feeling sorry for myself and then realising it was likely just tiredness starting to set in - after all, I had now completed almost 80 miles in just 2 days in the middle of a Canadian winter - so I allowed myself a little bit of slack and tried to think of positive things.
Andy drove back to me and told me it was approximately 2 miles to the finish, the last mile being downhill to the lakeshore at Maligne Lake. I let out a huge sigh, realising I still had another 30 minutes of running/walking to do - the sun was due to set in 10 minutes and I annoyed.
There was little I could do to stop the sun setting, but I could try to move a bit more quickly so that I didn't have too much deficit going into tomorrow. I started to pump the arms, I started to walk more quickly, and as I hit the brow of the hill and saw the road heading downwards, I started to run at a much quicker pace, finally arriving at the boathouse at around 4.55pm - 15 minutes later than I had hoped for.
It was quite dark when I finished but I was so relieved that today was done and dusted. It had been much, much tougher than the previous day, but I had done it, and I knew that going into tomorrow, I would once again be running the "downhill" route.
Driving back to the hotel that night, I did feel accomplished as I enjoyed a warm snuggle with teh pups on the backseat of the car. Later that night, we had pizza and chicken wings for tea, and boy oh boy did they taste good! I even allowed myself a beer or two, whilst Andy massaged my legs again to get me ready for another day of Jasper running. 122km (76 miles) done in the past two days, one day remaining - I knew that I would be finishing The Snow Queen Ultra sometime tomorrow, and that made all today's efforts worthwhile.
Day 2 progress in the Snow Queen Ultra :)
Day 3 - Maligne Lake to Jasper, Sunrise 9.03am, Sunset 4.40pm
Another early start today saw us drive out to Maligne Lake, hopeful of clear skies and a beautiful sunrise. Unfortunately, Mother Nature decided that we would have cloud cover again today, and with temperatures at the lake being at -19c, it was the coldest day so far since starting The Snow Queen Ultra.
I really felt the cold this morning and decided to add another layer before starting. My hair was already frozen before I even started, and my jacket had an icy layer forming over it. I'd wrapped my bladder in a woollen top again, but I suspected that it would still freeze today and within just 20 minutes of starting, I was proven to be correct.
This was the third time I had been at Maligne Lake this week, yet the views never grow old, and I was still wowed by the beauty of an early start on a winter's morning. The plan today was to start at the boat house and do to a few laps of each of the parking lots to get in some distance - this would mean less miles to complete at the end when arriving back in Jasper. Andy braved the cold with me whilst waiting for me to start, and as soon as my watch said 9.03am, I put my best foot forward and started on my final journey to Jasper for the week - another 61km ahead of me, but I felt much more positive and optimistic today.
Day 3 start line at Maligne Lake boathouse
As the official sunrise arrived, I set off once again, and with half an hour or so, I had already completed around 5km and was heading back out onto the Maligne Lake road. Once again, Andy was there supporting me in the car, and given that my drinks and food had already frozen within such a short timescale, he was stopping regularly to ensure I was eating and drinking and stayed well fueled for the duration of the run - I had built up an incredible appetite this past couple of days, and I ravenous! We had some left over pizza from the previous night along with some sausage rolls, and I was merrily munching my way through them quite early in the day, despite having already had a doughnut and a bowl of porridge before setting off from Jasper.
It was much, much quieter on the road today, likely because we were so close to Christmas and people had either headed off back home, or else were on their way to the mountains and likely to arrive the following day which was Christmas Eve. I had almost forgotten that it was Christmas week - I had been so focused on completing the Snow Queen that everything else had taken a backseat for now, but as I ran along thinking of Christmas with our little family, I got that sense of excitement that I always get at this time of year.
It sure was cold this morning, and I was thankful that I had put the extra layers on along with double gloves and socks. Having ran this route the previous day and realised just how hilly it was, I was happy that today was the "downhill" day, and I was making really good progress despite holding back on my pace. The now familiar river crossings and roadside pullouts passed me by, and I was once again in my element as I happily ran along. A few Parks Canada Wardens drove by and waved - I'm sure they'd seen every day so far this week and were wondering what on earth I was doing, but it felt good to see familiar faces even if they were complete strangers.
The downhill towards Medicine Lake felt amazing today - I was feeling energised, well fuelled and very happy. I was in my own little world once again as I went through the motions of running, and I was noticing every little thing around me as I ran - the birds singing, the sound of river, snow and frost on the trees, the sparkling of the snow as the sun rose in the sky, the mountain peaks, the shade of the clouds and the skies in the early morning. It truly was wonderful.
Heading towards Medicine Lake in -19c temperatures :)
The sun starting to peak over the mountains and bringing warmth to the valley :)
Before I knew it, I had covered 20km and had once again reached the shores of Medicine Lake. Andy would be waiting in the parking lot higher up at the trail head for Beaver Lake, and I knew there would be more pizza and a hot cup of coffee to keep me going. Although there had been no further snow overnight, the road was still waiting to be ploughed, so I found it a little tricky in places where the ground was still soft and covered in several inches of snow.
Making good progress and feeling happy :)
A winter wonderland :)
I met Andy at the parking lot as planned, spending several minutes refuelling and getting warm before setting off to complete the route around Medicine Lake. The legs were feeling surprisingly good despite all the climbing yesterday, and I was well ahead of schedule - it was looking like I would be on for a 4pm finish if I could keep things going.
It's a little strange looking back now at how competitive I was feeling that day. I wasn't racing anybody and yet I felt like I needed to push on and be efficient at the "aid stations" which were of course Andy in the car. I had it in my head that I wanted to finish in a "PR" that day no matter what it took, and I think I pushed the pace far more on the final day that either of the previous days.
I reached the bend where I had seen the animal tracks in the snow a couple of days again, and I knew that once I had done this small half mile climb, it would be a good 12 miles of running downhill. That sounded far more appealing than yesterday when I'd had 12 miles of uphill, but as I was to find out, even all that downhill running has it's disadvantages!
Wow! All that downhill!
Having seen no animal tracks in the snow, the fear of cougars or wolves, or indeed any wild animal was now a distant memory, and I was quite happy to be running solo and enjoying the peace and quiet again. Andy was still checking on me every couple of miles, but unlike yesterday, he was now driving further ahead to wait for me, and I was happy to just plod along on my own.
I hadn't picked up the pace particularly, but after about 3 miles of downhill, I had the urge to walk. My legs were starting to feel quite heavy, and it was getting quite tiring using those tired muscles over and over again as I made my way down the hill. It would be at least another hour until I reached the canyon parking lot again where I had agreed to do a couple of loops on the flat to break things up and give my legs a bit of recovery. I was actually getting a little fed up of the downhill! I wanted to get the downhill out of the way as quickly as possible, but if I ran any faster, I could feel the fatigue from the past few days and had to ease back or walk for short stretches. I said to Andy a couple of times that I just wanted the downhill to end, and although feeling much happier and better fuelled than the previous day, I was starting to struggle mentally with the continuous down, down, down. I knew it was only a couple more miles to the parking lot, but those couple of miles seemed to take forever.
It was such a great feeling when I saw the canyon sign and I made a right turn along the roadway on the lookout for Andy. I found him easily enough, I changed my shoes as the roadway was now slushy with less snow and ice, and I filled up on more sausage rolls and cups of coffee. I now only had around 13km or 8 miles to the finish, and with most of that still being downhill and with having 2 hours of daylight still remaining, it meant I could take my time a little bit.
Having completed 3 loops of the parking lot, giving me another mile less to complete when arriving back in town, I told Andy that once we reached the bridge by the river, he could leave me and take the dogs to the dog park, then meet me at the finish by the information centre. He agreed, and having made sure I had some Gatorade and some jelly beans some half hour later, I was left to complete the final 6km or so on my own.
Detour to the Fairmont jasper Lodge
I still didn't want to be doing loops in town to finish, so I made the detour towards the Fairmont Jasper Lodge again, trying to get as much mileage as possible. I'd overestimated how far it was to the hotel gates, and ended up turning into a picnic area for a loop of the lake before heading back the way I'd come and making my way to the trail that ran alongside the highway.
Whoo hoo! Almost finished :)
I followed the proper trail today as opposed to the deer trail I had accidentally followed earlier in the week, which took me further away from the highway and was much more picturesque. It was also a little more undulating, and my legs were by now definitely feeling those tiny little climbs. I passed the Jasper sign once more, knowing that there was only a mile and a half to go until I finished. Looking at my watch, it was only 3.45pm - could I make it before 4pm? It felt good challenging myself in that last mile or so, upping the pace and clock watching to see if I could make my own cut off. I saw the information centre ahead with Andy waiting in the car as I approached. I still had just 800 metres to go before I had completed the official distance, so I alerted Andy and asked to make sure he was at my finish line to take that finish line photo.
It felt fantastic coming into the finish, and it really did feel like I was completing a race, and I was so happy to finish in my quickest time for the week in 6 hours 58 minutes. It sounds like such an incredibly long time to cover just 38 miles, but with the terrain and the conditions, I was ok with that. I had finished my end of year challenge, I had virtually crossed Norway, I had finished the Snow Queen Ultra in days, with a cumulative time of 22 hours 20 minutes for 113.6 miles, or 183km.
Post Challenge Thoughts
I've already alluded to the fact that some people thought I would find this challenge easy, especially given my background in ultra running. In fact, the challenge was just what I needed, and it was certainly far from easy. It challenged me mentally and physically just like any ultra race would, but the hardest part was knowing that I really didn't have to do this if I didn't want to. I didn't have to start at sunrise, I didn't have to run the route that I did, I didn't have to do it in three days, nor beat the sun. But setting those targets made me accountable, and telling everybody my plans meant there was no hiding away from things. It made me more determined to succeed because I knew there were eyes on me, and it was knowing that that pushed me forwards when I knew that I could just quit if I wanted to.
I'm so glad that I decided to do this challenge, and although I seldom do races just for the swag, on this occasion I can't wait for the medal and t-shirt to arrive in the mail. This challenge probably means more to me due to it being unique, due to it being done in the year of Covid, and because I set my own rules to ensure discipline and cooperation.
That night after finishing, we had a lovely meal in our hotel room and a few beers to celebrate. Of course I was tired and yet considering how far I had ran, I actually felt ok. I didn't have a massage that night, and the following day I did feel sore from the running. It was Christmas Eve and we still had a 5 hour drive back home - the thought of sitting in the car was not appealing, and I knew I would stiffen up by the time we got home.
We took the pups for a nice little walk before heading off, and they had fun at the dog park before heading out to the picnic area just outside of Jasper for a little wander around with them. Whilst Andy and the pups had been in Jasper with me for the entire duration of the event, I had actually missed them, and I hadn't spent as much time with them as I would have liked. The walks made up for that, and the puppy snuggles on the drive home were greatly appreciated.
Post race fun with the pups :)
I did record some video over the 3 days, and I am currently putting together a short "film" to visually show what happened during my time out on the Maligne Lake road. I'll be posting it in 3 parts on my YouTube channel (link
here - look for "The Snow Queen Ultra"), and I hope that you will find some time to watch it so you can see the beauty of the Rocky Mountains through my eyes this past winter.
I have no idea what 2021 will bring. I have races planned but who knows whether those races will go ahead. As I always do, I shall plan for things the best I can, and should things go belly up again, I will adapt and challenge myself in other ways to get me through the year.
Thanks to everybody who has ready this to the end, thanks to all of you that have supported me, and I wish you all the very best for 2021. Happy running, and happy trails to all of you :)
