Alberta has been plagued by smoke from the wildfires burning in BC for pretty much all of August which has made running outside far less appealing. You can smell the smoke in the air, and after a 10km tempo run a couple of weeks ago, I certainly felt chesty and somewhat concerned about what damage it was doing to the lungs. It was sod's law that my treadmill had also broken so I didn't have the option of running indoors but thankfully my taper for Iron Legs had already started, so the longest run I had scheduled in was just 10 miles.
For my last 10 mile run, I again made a last minute decision to do a race, this time the 5 Peaks Trail Race at Chickakoo. I had originally planned to volunteer at the race and do my run afterwards, but Andy was working away which would have meant leaving the pups on their own for several hours which I was reluctant to do.
The weather that weekend had cooled off considerably and conditions were perfect for running with cool temperatures and light rain. I felt fantastic for the entire race although a couple of mishaps meant that it wasn't quite perfect. A couple of kilometres into the race, I came across about 15 runners huddled together and thought something bad had happened. It turned out that there was a wasp nest right on the course and several runners had already been badly stung. We'd been informed at the start that several wasp nests had already been removed from the course during the previous week but this was either a new one or it had been missed. Some folks refused to run through and withdrew from the race there and then, others were forced to stop due to stings, whilst others were stung and carried on regardless. I continued and was swatting wasps off my arms and shirt, and when I felt a tingling sensation at the top of my legs, I looked to see a huddle of the little devils on my shorts, merrily stinging away. I knocked them off and later found out that I had 4 stings which remained itchy for about a week afterwards.
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| Fun at Chickakoo - PC 5 Peaks |
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| The beautiful Chickakoo - PC 5 Peaks |
After the excitement of the wasps, I found myself in the group of lead runners that somehow missed a turn and ended up on a gravel road. We followed the road for a few minutes before realising the mistake and retraced our steps. I was so frustrated and ran the remainder of the race quicker than I should have done, managing to claw back some places to finish 3rd lady overall.
The course was really nice with lots of ups and downs through the surrounding woodland and it kept us on our toes with plenty of tree roots and a few rocks to look out for - I loved it!
Of course, my main race was Iron Legs 50 miler which was the following weekend and I was really looking forward to racing on the mountain trails again.
We had driven down to Calgary on the Friday and the visibility from the smoke was really poor. A walk with the dogs on Nose Hill highlighted just how bad it was with the usual mountain views and the skyline of downtown Calgary being obscured by a smoky haze whilst you can smell the smoke in the air. The air quality index had been high all week and some people had opted not to start the race although it was expected to drop over the weekend. I admit to being somewhat concerned myself about the potential health risks of being exposed to smoke for several hours but I'd made the decision to start and see how things felt - if I experienced laboured breathing or any dizziness that felt different than I would normally experience in an ultra, I would either drop down to the 60km or else just stop.
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| A walk on Nose Hill and you can just make out downtown Calgary hidden in the smoke |
I'd ran Iron Legs before in 2014, and whilst it's billed as a 50 miler, it is actually closer to 54 miles with nearly 14,000 feet of climbing. That year, I finished 5th lady in 13 hours 32 minutes or thereabouts - my goal this time around was simply to improve on that time and finish in 12 hours and something. Other than that, I really didn't have a plan. I had been doing hill reps on the treadmill and managed some hilly runs around Edmonton but I hadn't really had as much exposure to the mountains as I had last time. However, I was feeling fitter so I was intrigued to see how things panned out.
The race started at 6am and with an hour's drive to Station Flats, I was up at 4am having my usual porridge and a cup of coffee. The only nerves I felt were about the smoke - I trusted my training and knew that I had done everything I could to ensure I had a good race but the smoke was still lingering in the air and it was going to be a long day.
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| Station Flats and ready to go :-) |
From the start, I had no idea was position I was in and was running well within myself, careful not to overdo things too early as I knew what was to come. I had taken a look at my splits from last time to give me some idea of how quick I needed to run to beat my previous time - I knew that I would gain time on the climbs if anything and had to focus on just moving forward and running as much as possible, even if it later became more of a shuffle.
Although there is quite a bit of climbing, the first section of the course along the Elbow Valley Trail to the first aid station is probably the easiest. I ran the downhills and the flats but power hiked the ups, careful not to get sucked in to a race early on when other ladies passed me and concentrating on doing my own thing. The first 6 miles went really quickly and as I came into the aid station at the Powderface Parking Lot, I was very surprised to see that I was already 9 minutes quicker than last time. I tried not to get carried away, but I was already starting to feel more confident that I was on track to run a faster time this year.
Andy did a great job of getting me out of the aid station very quickly, and having had a small can of Ginger Ale and grabbed some Jaffa Cakes that were kindly provided by Leo, I headed off up the trail that would take me up on to Powderface Ridge.
The climb up to the ridge wasn't too bad at all and once again I was moving well on the climbs. There were still a couple of other runners around me which I would normally find annoying (I like my own space on the trails), but I was actually glad of some company and it took my mind off the climbs ahead. As we reached the ridge, the smoke was pretty bad and you could really smell it in the air. I felt a tickly in my throat and was coughing a little but I was still feeling good otherwise and figured that it wasn't affecting me too much just yet.
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| Smoky haze on Powderface Ridge - usually you can see the surrounding mountains from here |
I really enjoy downhill running and the descent into Little Elbow is extremely steep and rocky which I found exciting. I gained some ground on a few of the other runners as I headed down but it also mean that my poor toes were already starting to get bruised. I was scrunching up my big toes to stop them hitting the front of my shoes but I could feel some friction building - an indication that a blister was forming which could become painful if I didn't do something about it. I had every intention of giving it some attention at the next aid station, but Andy did another amazing job in getting me in and out quickly, so much so that I completely forgot about my toe until I hit the next stretch of downhill by which time it was too late to double back.
The 9-mile section between Little Elbow and Ford Creek Aid Stations takes you through the more remote areas and I had been somewhat apprehensive about this stretch - bear sightings are far more likely and in previous years, this is where runners have reported seeing them. Yes, I had bear spray just in case of an unexpected encounter, but I wasn't sure if I would be able to remain calm should a bear decide to charge at me! Fortunately for the first mile or so, a group of hikers were using the same trail but as we veered off in the opposite direction, I found myself alone and it became very quiet and still. The snap of a branch, the sudden flap of wings from birds hiding in the trees - the slightest sound had me on high alert as I concentrated on the trail ahead and tried not to fall over tree stumps and rocks, whilst also looking off to the sides to make sure no big furry animals were taking an interest in me. At one point I saw something black move in trees and my heart started pounding but fortunately it was just the local cows grazing on the grass and other vegetation. I started clapping and trying to make a bit of noise and then felt stupid when I spotted another runner just a mere 50 metres or so ahead that had been hidden by trees as the trail weaved through the forest.
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| Somewhere on course PC: Iron Legs Mountain Races |
The Ford Knoll Trail has some really steep sections and long climbs but I was doing ok and still feeling strong. The downhills were still playing havoc with my bruised toes which were quite painful so I was holding back a little, but I was making good progress. I was also refuelling and re-hydrating well and so far I hadn't felt any queasiness nor tummy aches.
After about half an hour or so, a small group of runners caught up with me and we were kind of running together for a few miles. One of them was a lady who was doing the 50 mile race and she was looking strong on the climbs but not really putting too much distance over me. I knew I wouldn't be able to compete with her on the hills but I did know that so long as I kept her in my sights, I felt that I could possibly have the edge over her at the end if it came to it.
I couldn't recall how long it had taken me to complete this section last time, but I had a feeling that I was still ahead of schedule. As we were approaching the Ford Creek Aid Station, a passerby told me that I was 5th lady but the problem was that there was also a 60km race, a 100km race plus relay teams out on the course which meant that I didn't really know what position I was in. A quick glance around at the aid station indicated that I was certainly in the top 3 of the 50 mile race which gave me a boost but there was still a long way to go.
I refilled my water bladder and grabbed some watermelon and orange before setting off, once again making efficient work at the aid station. I'd left a couple of ladies behind me, but I knew for sure that the lady ahead of me was in the 50 mile race and she was still running strong on the hills.
We now had to climb up the backside of Powderface Saddle and I remembered how I moaned and groaned heading up here last time, complaining about how steep it was and how it just went on and on and on. And yet this time I reached the summit in what seemed like a fraction of the time. It was then pretty much all downhill for the next 3 or 4 miles back into the aid station at Powerderface Parking Lot which sounded great except that my toes were suffering and the blister was getting worse. It didn't help that I kept tripping on rocks and nearly fell a couple of times whilst heading down which added to the bruising - I just wanted to see Andy so I could change my shoes and stick a plaster on the blister.
I was still having to hold back on that downhill but I still managed to pass the other lady in the 50 miler. I wasn't 100% certain, but I had an inkling that I had now moved in to 1st place in the ladies race and I was feeling great! I hadn't eaten as much as I normally would but my energy levels seemed to be ok and I was still drink well. As I came into the Powderface Aid Station for the second time and passed the 50km mark, I started to think that maybe I could win this race after all.
It was good to see Andy again who helped me to change shoes and socks, and having checked I had enough water and grabbed some food, I set off towards the next aid station at Moose Packers which would signal the last serious climb to the summit of Moose Mountain.
It's approximately 8 miles between Powerderface Aid and Moose Packers which starts by retracing our steps from earlier in the day along Elbow Valley, before turning up Sulphur Springs towards Pneuma. This is where the wheels came off 4 years ago - the climbs really got to me and I did so much walking and found it tough going. How different things were this time. Yes, my legs were tiring but I was feeling so much stronger, so much more focused, so much more determined. I worked hard on those climbs up Sulphur Springs, and when I hit Pneuma, I knew that despite being a climb, it was mostly runnable until you neared the top.
I knew that I must have been way ahead of my sub 13 hour goal - now I wanted to win the race. I pushed onwards, more determined than ever, thinking to myself that if I could get to the top of Moose Mountain without any other ladies overtaking me, I would be ok.
I was heading up Pneuma before I knew it and was prepared for what was coming - a long, drawn out climb with switch backs, teasing you as you think you've reached the top but then it turns and you twist and turn some more. I didn't know how close the chasing ladies would be, so I just knuckled down and ran. Despite having taken some salt tablets and having made sure I was drinking, I started to cramp in the muscles around both knees. I had to stop and do a few squats in an attempt to get rid of the cramping as well as trying to massage them as I ran which seemed to do the trick after a while.
A gentleman from Victoria had been running with me up Pneuma - sometimes he would drop back and I would start clapping and yelling to keep the bears away (a grizzly had apparently been spotted in this area in recent weeks and I wasn't taking any chances), but then the chap would reappear and I'd feel bad making so much noise! It's a beautiful trail that I have a love/hate relationship - wonderful single track but mentally challenging as it really does seem to go on and on and on.
That last mile or two before hitting the next aid station were probably the toughest for me. I needed a break from the 4 miles of uphill and I desperately needed some food. I was getting frustrated at how long it was taking me and I just wanted it done.
Finally I arrived at Moose Packers with a huge welcome from the volunteers, refilled my bladder, grabbed some chocolate M&Ms, watermelon and other munchies, along with some coke to get some sugar and caffeine into me. It made a huge difference and I was ready for that climb up Moose Mountain.
As we started the climb to the false summit of Moose, the smoke started to become more noticeable again and I could feel it on my chest. The views were once again obscured by the same smoky haze with Moose Mountain only just visible in the murkiness ahead.
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| Moose Mountain in the distance, covered in smoke |
It was only a 6 mile-ish out and back stretch to the summit, but after the forest section, the trail becomes very rocky before hitting the steep switchbacks. The good thing about the latter is that they give an excellent view of those behind and I found myself checking back every 5 minutes to see if there were any ladies close by. As I reached the top of the switchbacks, legs and glutes throbbing from the gradient, I saw somebody in bright pink about 400m from the start of the climb. I knew for sure that was the second placed lady which meant I probably had about a 10 minute lead over her.
I ran the next kilometre to the checkpoint as fast as possible, took a quick piccie, before turning and making my way back down the mountain. As I hit the switchbacks on the way down, the 2nd and 3rd placed ladies were just coming up which confirmed my assumptions - they really were only 10 minutes or so behind me and with another 10 miles still to go, they could quite easily catch me if I got complacent and didn't keep pushing onwards.
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| Heading back down having checked in at the false summit on Moose Mountain |
The run back through the forest went quickly - I even managed to keep running on the small uphills that sneak up on you on this trail - and before long, I was back at the Moose Packers Aid Station. The distance on my watch now said miles - I knew the course was closer to 53 miles or 85km, but when I sought confirmation at the aid station, they told me it was another 15km which meant over 9 miles to the finish - shit! That still seemed like a long way and it would have been so easy to let the negative thoughts creep in but I tried to stay upbeat, shrugged it off and set off down Moose Packers Trail.
I'd taken some chicken broth with me that tasted amazing and it gave me a surge of energy as I headed down the steep trail.
Heading back to Station Flats and the finish line would mainly take us along the Ridgeback Trail and this was another section of the course where I got paranoid about bears. The field at this point is so spread out, the sun is starting to go down, there is an abundance of berries, and the bears are feeding on the berries in preparation for the winter. I think it took more energy clapping and singing out loud than it did running, but apart from a few wild turkeys and more of the local cows, I didn't see any wildlife - phew!
On hitting Ridgeback, it was now a case of just getting to the finish. I needed to keep a consistent pace going and not walk - walking would mean the chasing ladies were more likely to catch me and I wasn't prepared to let that happen. Mentally I had had enough. I just wanted to finish but the trail just kept going up and down the hillside and I was feeling like I just wasn't making any progress. The miles were passing by but they seemed to be taking forever. Physically I was still feeling good and running strongly without any problems when I put my mind to it. But the negative thoughts were there - "I'm sick of this now", "seriously? up AGAIN?!", "I'm pissed off now", "where's the finish?", "oh, this is ridiculous!" - and so it was until I had about 3 miles to go!
When running along Ridgeback at that time of day, you very rarely see anybody until you start getting close to the parking lot. I'd seen nobody for absolutely ages but as I ran across a bridge and rounded a corner, a young couple were walking up the trail. I knew that the finish must be close and a quick look at my watch told me I had just gone through 53 miles. Damn - still another 2 or 3 to go. As I got close to the couple, I paused briefly and said to them that the parking lot must be pretty close. They looked at me hesitantly before replying that it was still aways to go, probably about another km - I grinned like a Cheshire Cat and thanked them profusely, telling them they have no idea how happy they had made me. With over 85km in the legs and nearly 14,000 ft of climbing, 1km is absolutely nothing - I was almost there!
I had such a spring in my step running that last half a mile or so and when I saw the signs, "what are you legs made of?" and then the other shortly afterwards, "IRON!", I got somewhat emotional. I was heading into the finish of Iron Legs 50 Miler as the winning lady and I was finishing well within my target time in around 12 hours and 22 minutes - I was over the moon!
Now that I am back home recovering from the race, I can honestly say that I don't think things could have gone any better on race day. I prepared as best I could with treadmill hills and runs around the river valley in Edmonton. I tried to get as much elevation as possible in my training but in reality, I knew I would still find it tough - this race is not called Iron Legs for nothing! This race was far better than last time despite me having less time in the mountains and less access to climbs in training - Leduc is flat, I don't do strength work, and yet I still managed to improve on the uphills. Physically I probably wasn't as strong, but what I lacked in strength I personally feel I made up for in mental attitude and determination. I always say run your own race, set your own goals, and if everything comes together, it will bring the victory if it's what you want.
Of course there are lots of thank yous again - Andy for crewing me, for getting up a 4am and waiting around for over 12 hours whilst trying to entertain the dogs, Leo for providing the Jaffa Cakes, Jamie Knott and his team of volunteers for making this such an awesome event, all the runners out on the course offering encouragement and support, friends and family both near and far for believing in me, Kelly who has fast become my trusty and reliable sports/massage therapist and has helped to iron out the creeks and groans in this old body, and of course Adam Livingston who still coaches me and still gets things right. Thank you all!
Moving back to Canada really has given me a new lease of life and I honestly believe that the passion and love I have for this country also helps to motivate me to get out and run, and to experience the beauty of this country. I love the mountains, I love forests, and I love the fresh air - although it is a little smoky right now! I've had the most awesome few months exploring and racing since I moved back, but there is no denying that fall is around the corner, and then the dreaded winter where snow and freezing cold temperatures take hold. I'm a year round runner and I will still train throughout the winter, but there are far fewer races. Thankfully I'm still a member of the 2018 Aravaipa Running Racing Team based out of Phoenix, Arizona, and I still proudly represent them in my races, no matter where they are. In October, I'm heading back to the desert for my next race, the Javelina Jundred, and I'm pretty excited about it. I know that there will be far tougher competition at JJ but then winning isn't everything - I'm realistic and hopefully humble enough to know that I will not win every race that I do, but I will have fun and enjoy every minute, I will set my own goals and I will be grateful that I can still run these distances after all these years.
Until next time .... happy trails, stay safe, and have fun!